THERE’S MUCH to see in a country that has captured the imagination of travelers, writers and philosophers going back at least 2,500 years. But make haste: Egyptian authorities are transforming the capital with new roads and construction to the dismay of Cairenes who remember more-walkable neighborhoods and tree-lined streets. And dozens of historic Nile River houseboats were recently confiscated by authorities in favor of flashier waterfront cafes and restaurants.
Still, glimpses of Cairo’s past remain—you’ll just have to dig a bit deeper. To that end, we’ve enlisted four locals to help surface the most intriguing attractions, from the ancient to the enterprising. One piece of advice: Traffic and long distances between sites always present challenges, so give yourself plenty of time to soak it all up.